2020 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Montrachet Grand Cru [D99][TA98][JM96-98][WA96-98][V96-98][BH95-98][JG97]

"Abundant aromas of ripe apple fruit, with a full complement of butter and spice underpinned with a pronounced minerality, but there is no excess here. The wine is powerful and dense but not heavy, and the balance and definition are sublime. A towering achievement. Lafon remarked that the Montrachet took its time to ripen, yet there was enough water to sustain the vines. Indeed, the wine fermented out to just 13% alcohol instead of many vineyards which were at or above 14%. Fermentation was in 45% new casks." 

"Boldly perfumed and surprisingly open at this stage - typically it's rather ungiving now, this smells of passion fruit, apricot and Mandarin orange zest. The palate is similarly magnanimous with a profound creaminess accompanied by ample extract and surrounded by supremely integrated lift. There is undeniable intensity that rumbles with its brilliant potential. Typically made entirely in new oak, in 2020 two of the five barrels were second-use barrels. 2025-45." 

"Six and a half barrels, of which for the first time two are one year old rather than all new. Mid lemon yellow. The wood does of course show on the nose, why not at this young age, but it is soon beaten aside by the concentration of the wine. Fresh quince, powerful yellow plums. It is the extraordinary intensity on the palate that puts this in the grand cru class. It is still a little bit unformed but all the right aspects are present. Does it quite have the length of the greatest years?" 

"Soaring from the glass with aromas of buttered orchard fruit, honeycomb, orange oil, peach and nutmeg, the 2020 Montrachet Grand Cru is full-bodied, rich and satiny, with a layered, muscular mid-palate that's girdled by lively acids and a long, resonant finish. This is an expressive, dramatic Montrachet that can comfortably keep company with the superb 2017, 2018 and 2019 vintages. Dominique Lafon celebrated his official retirement in December 2021, after 37 years at the domaine, and is handing over the reins to daughter Léa and nephew Pierre, even if he will surely still be on hand to help the new generation for many years to come. He can reflect with satisfaction on an important career, as the first generation of the Lafon family to become a farmer and grow the grapes he vinified and as one of his generation's leading pioneers of organic farming. And he can certainly be satisfied with the 2020 vintage, a terrific success at this address. As the accompanying notes attest, I was very impressed, and special mention is owing to the best set of red wines I can remember tasting here." 

"The 2020 Montrachet Grand Cru, which this year is matured in one-third new oak instead of 100%, has a very mineral-driven bouquet with impressive focus and vibrancy. I think that prudent approach to the new oak reveals more of that prized Montrachet "dirt". Very expressive and transparent. The palate is brilliantly balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh, spicy and taut with veins of stem ginger and silex towards the persistent finish. Stunning. Closure: Diam 30." 

"Pungent aromas of wood and reduction dominate the underlying fruit today. Otherwise, there is outstanding volume to the very punchy and superbly powerful big-bodied flavors that stain the palate with dry extract on the incredibly compact yet massively persistent finish. Despite the imposing size, weight and concentration, this remains impeccably well-balanced, indeed it's quite Zen-like. One of the wines of the vintage.*Burghound Don't Miss!*" 

"The 2020 Montrachet from Domaine des Comtes Lafon was fully on form and there was no need for any range for this truly beautiful young wine! The bouquet soars from the glass in a very refined blend of apple, pear, fresh coconut, macadamia nut, a beautiful base of chalky soil tones, citrus blossoms and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and utterly seamless, with a lovely core of fruit, great soil signature, bright, zesty acids and outstanding length and grip on the long, focused and supremely elegant finish. An utter classic. (Drink between 2030-2080)"