2021 Domaine Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin Cuvee de Tres Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru [WA96][JM95][V94][BH93]

Producer: Domaine Joseph Roty 
Region: Charmes-Chambertin, Cote de Nuits, Burgundy, France 
Varietal: Pinot Noir 
Year: 2021 

Wine Advocate, 96 Points 

"Unfurling in the glass with aromas of cherries, wild berries, licorice, orange zest, vine smoke, incense and rose petals, the 2021 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Très Vieilles Vignes is full-bodied, deep and layered, its velvety attack segueing into a rich, succulent mid-palate that entirely conceals its powdery structuring tannins. Long and perfumed, it entirely transcends the perceived limitations of the vintage, and Burgundy purists will adore it. Tasting with affable eleventh-generation vigneron Pierre-Jean Roty—who took the helm at this discrete family-owned domaine following his brother's untimely passing in 2015—is an annual pleasure that I always eagerly anticipate. This year, it was the turn of the 2021s, wines that have nothing to fear from a comparison with other sunnier, drier recent years, exuding charm and perfume that will delight Burgundy purists. Roty fans will be familiar with the approach at this address: assiduously but only shallowly cultivated soils, a high proportion of old vines, minimal use of chemical treatments, destemmed grapes fermented in concrete tanks, and élevage in generous percentages of smoky new oak for 15-16 months. My sense is that today's wines are suppler than the Roty wines of yesteryear. They're less forbidding in their youth than their formidable reputation might suggest—even the grands crus boast such generosity of fruit that their rich structuring tannins are frequently concealed. But they develop just as gracefully as ever." 

Jasper Morris, 95 Points 

"A rich and even darker purple. Very intense crushed dark strawberries, gorgeously hedonistic. Then it is. A-fresher style of strawberry, plus raspberry, on the palate, an excellent fruit acid balance with tamed tannins. Do I still get a touch of something smoky to finish, a slight intrusion of the barrel toast while the wine is young? Drink from 2030-2038."

Vinous, 94 Points 

"A pleasing crimson, softer in style than the Mazy, as indeed is the bouquet. Soft rich strawberries. Possibly more at the front than the back, this wine is close to being the opposite of Mazy. Then an attractive little touch of fruit returns behind. Drink from 2029-2036."

Burghound, 93 Points 

"Note: from a .16 ha parcel in Charmes proper of vines planted in 1885 that have never been pulled up though Roty points out that those that have died over the years have been replanted. A moderately toasty nose speaks of liqueur-like aromas of dark cherry, spice, violet and hints of herbal tea and smoked meat. There is impressive intensity to the dense, powerful and muscular imposingly scaled flavors that brim with sappy dry extract that helps to buffer the firm tannins on the compact, austere, innately sweet and long finish where the wood slowly reemerges." 

Alcohol: 13.5% 

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