Worth Trying: South African Chenin Blanc

Over 50% of the world’s Chenin Blanc plantings grow in South Africa. Once used for bulk wine production made by large co-ops, Chenin is now all about artisan winemaking. Chenin Blanc also counts, alongside Riesling, as a wine varietal that many may not understand. Is Chenin Blanc sweet or dry or in-between, for example? 

Chenin Blanc: A Versatile Wine 

Traditionally called “Steen” in South Africa, Chenin Blanc can produce a versatile variety of wines. Depending on the winemaker’s chosen style it may offer yellow or quince, pear, baked apple, passion fruit, peach, lime, honeydew, and mandarin flavors alongside notes of honey or even lemon verbena.  Chenin wines almost always feature medium plus to high acidity. 

A dry Chenin Blanc is characterized by fruit, acidity, plus minerality and leanness. Dry Chenin Blancs can range from light and refreshing to more full-bodied and complex, depending on the terroir and winemaker. When aged, Chenin Blanc will develop complex flavors of honey, nuts, and dried fruits. Expect mature Chenin Blancs to be rich and full-bodied, with a creamy textured complexity. The grape also performs well in blends, as you will see when you order white wine online. 

South African Chenin Blancs to Try Now 

South African winemakers have embraced modern winemaking techniques while also respecting traditional methods, resulting in wines that are both innovative and rooted in tradition. 

The vegan and sustainably farmed 2021 Kumusha The Flame Lily, for example, is made from 48% Roussanne, 35% Chenin Blanc, 13% Colombar, and 4% Semillon. It will age well for up to 6-7 years. The winemaker says to expect white peach, lemon zest & winter melon flavors with great richness and sensuality in the fruit.  A taut and minerally acidity adds complexity and structure. 

The 2022 Badenhorst Secateurs Chenin Blanc is also not quite a 100% varietal. It won 90 points from James Suckling at a great price. Substantial lees ageing, the winemakers says, “gives incredible texture and palate weight to the wine.”  They added “a tiny bit of Semillon and Grenache blanc” to round of its structure.  Suckling says, “Bright and rounded with an expressive core of stone fruit."  

Continuing with the theme of blended Chenin Blanc, the 2022 Mullineux Old Vines White

boasts 62% Chenin Blanc, 10% Clairette Blanche, 9% Viognier, 7% Grenache Blanc, 6% Semillon Gris, and 6% Verdelho. That’s quite an enticing mix! Old vines, too, make a wine special, with flavorful concentration. Old vines produce grapes with exceptional depth and complexity. Wine Advocate loved this wine, calling it “bright, fresh and focused.” The “succulent stone fruit aromas” combine with “a brilliant floral essence and sweet citrus tone.” Expect this wine to be pretty full-bodied. You will savor it in the mouth with “a delightful crunchy minerality and exuberance that displays power and finesse.” 

The next wine is made by an employee-owned winery in Swartland. Mostly vinified in stainless steel, expect purity: yes, finally a 100% varietal in the 2021 Great Heart Chenin Blanc. Wine and Spirits lauded it with 93 points, calling it “really quaffable.” “The candied-pear flavors laced with high-toned florals grab your attention first,” then leading to “gentle wildflower complexity and salted-lemon lift.” Mouthwatering! 

With so many old vine Chenin Blancs in existence in South Africa combined with the current experimentation and quality of winemaking there, this grape has come a long way from its origins in France’s Loire Valley. South Africa long ago claimed the grape as its own. 

If you haven’t tried the South African expressions of this often underappreciated varietal, go ahead, order Chenin Blanc online! It will be worth it.