Guide to Pinot Grigio . . . or Is that Pinot Gris?

What is the Difference Between Pinot Grigio, used to make the 2022 Terlato Friuli Pinot Grigio, and Pinot Gris, like what’s in the 2021 Erath Pinot Gris from Oregon? 

In fact, they are the same grape variety. Pinot Grigio is the Italian version of this varietal, used to make an incredibly popular white wine, especially among enthusiasts in the United States and Northern Europe. Pinot Gris is the name this varietal receives in Alsace, France, as well as in Oregon, where the wines are often more complex and nuanced. 

The Pinot Family 

Pinot Grigio or Pinot Gris are part of the Pinot family of Vitis vinifera wine grapes, which also includes another white variety called Pinot Blanc and two red varieties, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Unlike other grape varieties used to make white wine, Pinot Grigio has reddish skin and is also used in the production of orange wines. Check out, for instance, the 2021 Forlorn Hope Dragone Ramato Pinot Gris the next time you order wine online. 

Many people who buy wine choose Pinot Grigio wines for their typical light body with crisp acidity and relatively neutral flavors. Such wines are versatile and easy to pair with a variety of foods. They often have notes of citrus fruits, pear, apple, and floral aromas. The style of Pinot Grigio can vary depending on where it is grown and how it is made. Alsatian Pinot Gris, also known as Tokay Pinot Gris, is used not only to make white wines but also to produce some of the world's finest sweet wines. To identify them, look for labels that say "Grand Cru Pinot Gris," "vendage tardives" (late harvest), or "Sélection de Grains Nobles," wines made from grapes affected by noble rot. 

The Character of Pinot Grigio  

Because Pinot Grigios are very light wines, without great nuances, we have to ask, besides being Italian, what is the secret to this wine’s success with so many people in Europe and the US? 

A lot of  its popularity is due to a good marketing strategy driven by Santa Margherita Winery and certain supermarket own-label brands in the United Kingdom. For years, they promoted the image of Pinot Grigio as a young, reliable white wine, without wood and without surprises. 

But not all Pinot Grigios are like that. In the northern Italian regions of Alto Adige and Friuli, some wines are full of character with a marked personality, as a result of aging on lees. The 2022 Erste & Neue Alto Adige Pinot Grigio, made from organic grapes, is a good example of fantastic, complex Pinot Grigio. Critic James Suckling says it has “more substance and structure than is normal for a regular Alto Adige pinot grigio. Surprisingly long and complex finish.” 

In Alsace, France, Pinot Gris is a very important variety. Consider the 2019 Domaine Weinbach Pinot Gris Altenbourg, a wine made for ageing. Wine Spectator calls it “a succulent white.” The critic’s review giving 93 points calls it “lightly fleshy and medium-bodied, with a lovely zesty edge that works with the mouthwatering acidity to balance the lush flavors of white peach puree, honeysuckle, candied papaya and smoky mineral.” Or there’s the 2016 Kuentz-Bas Pinot Gris Grand Cru Florimont. The Winemaker describes: “Unlike light, crisp Italian Pinot Grigio, the grape achieves a sun-drenched plumpness that translates to a lusciousness on the palate, no doubt from the dry, sunny climate Alsace enjoys in the rain shadow of the Vosges. With a subtle touch of sweetness, Florimont is far from a dessert wine.” 

Right here in Sonoma County, too, winemakers craft Pinot Grigio, or is it Pinot Gris, into different styles. The best wine store California has the 2020 Keller Estate La Cruz Vineyard Pinot Gris, a bright, dry, and highly aromatic wine. Intense aromas of white peach and jasmine will greet your nose. For a bit of contrast, there’s the 2021 Gail Wines Morning Sun Pinot Grigio from Sonoma Mountain at 11.9% ABV. This is a tart, fresh wine redolent with key-lime, white flowers, and bright acidity. The winemaker was inspired by the dry white wines of the Friuli region in Northern Italy, and it boasts substantial lees ageing. Both are available for online wine delivery right now!